Weekly Qs #6: Patterns - Love them or hate them?

By **Duckeh**. 12/01/13, 03:43 am

Patterns - Love them or hate them?

So do you use sewing patterns as a base, altering from there? Or do you prefer to start from scratch?

I do a bit of both! But I come across people who really hate patterns. I think they provide a really nice base to work off of though? When it's something so ridiculously tight or out there, I have stolen Rowan's dress form and used that to drape the fabric, which was quite fun and different.

What's your stance on the pattern/no pattern war? Razz

By Static. 12/01/13, 03:50 am

I love patterns - I like having a record of what I do for each project and being able to go back and work from something I know works rather than doing everything from scratch. Commercial patterns are really hit or miss, though...I'm an average size, but tall, and I have never found a pattern that fit the way I wanted it to right out of the envelope! Drafting your own is fun, and a good skill to have.

I am deeply envious of people who can drape stuff well...it drives me nuts.

By squeakk. 12/01/13, 03:58 am

I still use the first pattern I bought (a simple short sleeved dress) for almost everything, and just alter it. I also copy the patterns off clothes I have. I never read the instructions on the patterns so I always end up failing horribly.
I would love to have a dress form and try to drape though!

By **seraphik**. 12/01/13, 04:05 am

i'm 50/50 these days-- for quite out-there stuff, i don't use a base pattern anymore & just go off my dressmaker's dummy, but if it's something staple like a jacket or dress then i'll buy a pattern and go from there. still pretty new to patterning stuff from scratch, but once you see enough pattern pieces you get an idea what they're supposed to look like?? idek

By kyokyogirl. 12/01/13, 05:31 am

I like using patterns, though I really don't like the design/modification process to produce a useable pattern XD I'm short, and a funny shape, so commercial patterns never fit me right.
I keep almost all my patterns, as once something fits right I tend to use it over and over (especially things like pants and basic coats/shirts).

By SpamTomatoSpam. 12/01/13, 05:33 am

I still don't have a dress form (although I might try making one of those duct tape ones at some point), so I always use or make patterns.
For tops/jackets/bodices I usually find a really really basic commercial pattern and redraw/modify/combine it with other patterns until it works. I usually make a mockup if I have suitable scrap fabric available, or otherwise I use the final fabric but just put insane 5cm seam allowances everywhere in case I need to add more darts in or something.
Skirts are usually pretty easy pattern-wise - mostly rectangles, triangles, trapeziums etc, stuff I can figure out with a calculator - so I'll usually draft my own pattern for those, and refer to a tutorial where necessary.
I don't like using commercial patterns for trousers (at least not for fitted ones) because you can't really tell how they'll look/fit without trying them on, and they're really annoying to adjust (you do not want pins stabbing you down there) so I trace a pattern off a pair of jeans or something - that way I know they'll fit with minimal adjustment.

By brunetteyes. 12/01/13, 06:18 am

I have never used a bought pattern but a lot of the time I work out patterns from clothes I have.

I have sort of thought that is a bit of a hassle trying to find a good pattern and expensive and unnecessary if I can do without. Nowadays I'm thinking it might be good to invest in a few patterns like basic pants, dress, jacket. But idk, I've been doing ok so far making it up as I go.

By Seakittens. 12/01/13, 06:37 am

I've tried using patterns before and find them quite tricky and things never fit right so usually when making cosplays i base my pieces off clothes i already have and know fit, which usually works out well. Patterns are amazing though. Wished they worked for me.

By **JVCA**. 12/01/13, 08:03 am

I tend to use patterns for complicated pieces, then modify them extensively because I have a small bust, medium waist, and medium/large hips, plus a small back - so as you can imagine, patterns rarely fit me. They're good for getting the overall thing started though. If it's a geometric thing I'm making though (like a simple skirt) then I just pattern it straight up - it's about as time consuming as modifying a pattern, but I don't have to pay for a pattern to modify. P:

By vefalasiel. 12/01/13, 10:32 am

I absolutely hate commercial patterns, I have to make them all myself. But once I have made them they are really handy to use again and again to alter into something else.

I prefer 3D patterns (dressform draping) to flat patterns though, because I know exactly how it will look.

By squeakk. 12/01/13, 11:47 am

The consensus seems to be -expletive- commercial patterns!

By Paul. 12/01/13, 04:34 pm

The only commercial pattern I own is for trousers. I brought it on Trademe for about $3 but its missing most of the instructions. The instructions it does have I found very confusing, so I do it all my own way. The first time was difficult.

For everything else I have made my own patterns by tracing off of clothing I have or making it up. I like stuff fairly loose fitting so I guess I have an easier job making my own patterns and getting them to work.
I keep all the patterns I make. So I can use them again for other similar things. I make sure to write on them: character name, fabric colour, part name/ location, sometimes a revision number, where the fabric folds and any notes about needing to modify a bit. It is helpful later on.

Now that I want to make a Jacket from Letter Bee. (Like a suit jacket with folded down collar) I have borrowed a pattern from my Mother to try and turn it into what I want. Not really looking forward to that. I don't find developing an modifying patterns very fun, I like things that work perfectly the first time Smile

By eveychu. 13/01/13, 12:06 am

Love them! Even though every time I use them I end up altering them beyond recognition.

By Mischa. 13/01/13, 11:49 am

Love them! I have started to use a base block I drafted too, so it saves time with fitting.

I'm mostly a stock size, but I am short legged with a narrow black, so I make similar alts to ever pattern I use.

By azeria. 13/01/13, 01:08 pm

I seriously can't sew without patterns Dxxx I try and drape them on my dressform/try and draft my own from looking at the billion patterns I have but it never seems to work. Its the reason I ragequit on costumes sob.

So keen for the pattern making section of y course in the second half of this year! Hopefully it will mean some of my costumes get finished haha.

By Pura. 13/01/13, 02:03 pm

I generally buy them and then modify them, but sometimes they fit so badly to begin with it's hard to modify. Like they gape weirdly at the bust area and stuff like that.

I'm starting a six month pattern making course tomorrow, so hopefully by the end of it my costume making skills will be better :DD.

I've only ever made a pattern on a person (essentially a mannequin) once before, but it did turn out rather well Very Happy

(Lily's Magna Carta cosplay from 2009? Wellygeddon if anyone here remembers it, lol). It was quite fun and I just bought a dressmakers mannequin two days ago, so I'm keen to start making some stuff just for fun and to try it out (regardless of size, lol).

But yeah, commercial patterns are so retarded and have horrible instructions and everything like that. I have heaps of fun making patterns for things like bags and rectangular things though Razz

By **Duckeh**. 14/01/13, 03:45 am

Ahrgh! Envy! )': I should look around for short pattern making courses, they would be great. GOOD LUCK, SHARE SOME TIPS WITH US. <3

But yeah, I generally go from a commercial pattern, modifying heavily. Unless it's something like a skirt, which generally you can wing. I should probably start keeping my own patterns. Razz

And I have been looking into making my own pattern blocks! I have this gorgeous sewing book from the 50's which deals with editing basic blocks into more complicated pieces. So cool.

Edit: THE THING THAT SCARES ME THE MOST ABOUT MAKING MY OWN PATTERNS ARE THE ARMHOLES/SLEEVES. Dem curves. They're scary.

By Le_Saboteur. 14/01/13, 04:40 am

I should probably use more commercial patterns, but I always find that they need so much altering to fit me if it's a more stiff material that it's easier just to wing it from scratch. I mainly just cut up old clothes that I know fit me, and keep the bits that I need.

Most of my costumes have been made by just mucking around, drawing on bits of fabric and rolling with it. I find patterning bizarrely fun, maybe because I KNOW I have no clue what I'm doing, and if it comes out looking half-decent I feel like a GENIUS.

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