Jack of Blades?

By Alatyr. 03/12/09, 02:56 am

Alright. If anyone has played Fable 1, they'll know who Jack of Blades is. The question i pose to you, my pro cosplayers is this~

Do you think it's possible to make the armour?
Here's a picture..

Spoiler:

The armour is segmented, which is probably the hardest part.
I've had quite a few brainstorms on the idea, and i think it could be possible, if i manage to find a suitible material such as craft foam, to produce.

So yeah, if anyone has any ideas on this, feel free to share them. Money isn't such a large problem at the moment~ (WORKING ALL THE FREAKIN' TIME), but obviously spending hundreds upon hundreds is out of the question.

Thankeeee.

By Bishkip. 03/12/09, 10:10 pm

DAMN MY FRIEND SCRATCHING MY OTHER FRIEND'S FABLE.

D;<

JUST WHEN I GET A GOOD COMPUTER, IT GOT SCRATCHED.

but, yes, jack of BLADES is brilliant.

but, idk how to do armour.

By Alatyr. 04/12/09, 01:20 am

Jack of Blades

By **Mandie_Chan**. 04/12/09, 07:40 am

http://www.entropyhouse.com/penwiper/costumes/helmsdeep.html
^this site has a really good craft foam tutorial on how to make light armour.

http://www.jiajem.com/armor.html
^paper clay armour.

Good luck~
_________________

Princess (Fable 3) | Smuggler (Assassin's Creed:Brotherhood) | Queen (Fable 3) | Delibird gijinka (Pokemon) | Sakura (Tsubasa)

~Jouhari~
~Formspring~

By Jaykob. 05/12/09, 09:47 am

Some how you could use card and paper mash--a.

By Alatyr. 08/12/09, 11:38 am

<3 Mandie. Thanks so much.

I've seen that site before but It was a few years back and didn't have the link.
BOOKMARK BOOKMARK BOOKMARK

By **Mandie_Chan**. 08/12/09, 11:41 am

By Alatyr. 08/12/09, 11:52 am

Thankyou. If i ever get it done, special mention goes to Mandie!

By **Duckeh**. 08/12/09, 01:32 pm

FGSFDS, AND I WILL BE THE MAZE TO YOUR JACK OF BLADES.
//prances off into the sunset.

But chyeah, craft foam armour is love.
_________________

{{Possible Plans}}
Valentina - Doctor Parnassus - 10% || Queen of Albion - Fable 3 - 0%

By Cookie Monster. 08/12/09, 03:08 pm

Before I start I would like to give a big "Fuck you" to my touch pad.
And now for Armour suggestion V2:

For this armour I suggest using plastic bottles/jars/containers and/or pipes & barrels. This will give you round plates you are after.
Different sizes would be best, but if you get stuck with bottles of the same size, or what to be a perfectionist and "flute" you edges Then having a heat gun (paint stripper) and a wooden post would help. By heating up the plastic and working slowly, you can "tease" out the edges.
If you choose this method, ALWAYS WEAR A MASK, and don't overheat your plastic. If it melts, drips or catches alight it's screwed and you'll have to start again. You want to heat up the plastic so it's malleable, nothing more.
Also remember it's easier to make the end bigger, rather than smaller.

I find working with many similar pieces it's best to "number code" each piece, so you don't lose track or which order they go in; e.g.
[Top Right Leg]TRL 1, TRL 2, TRL 3, [Left Knee]LK1, LK2, ETC.

I recommend "scaling" (linking one plate next to the other) rather than plating (having several plates 'inter-joined' together) your armour for a more natural range of movement and being able to sit down comfortably. Also try joining/linking your armour before painting it to avoid unfortunate accidents, and to protect your paintwork depending on you "finishing" method (more on that later).
"Dry fit" and link each plate separate and one at a time.
With the first plate, about 1" (2.5 cm) from the bottom mark 4 dots to drill with a small drill bit; 1 on each side of your leg (inside an outside). 180° apart might seem logical and obvious, but I insist on making them 20°-30° higher (towards the front of the leg) to prevent the plate from bowing or the linking material pulling the drilled hole out of shape.

For the following plates I recommend at least a 1/2"-3/4" (1.75cm-2cm) gap between the top edge and you next hole.

Next grab you second plate, wrap newspaper around until it fits snugly into the first plate and then tape the 2 together and drill you holes. This is the most efficient way to line up the 2 plates before linking.

Now you can either link now and hide the links, or link once you have painted the armour and "blend" them. Remember the bottom holes will be the only visible holes if examined hard enough. These 2 vary on personal or cosmetic opinion or even background fluff.
Like a real old suit of might have the links showing, a video game character won't.

If you are binding now grab some fishing nylon. Next grab your two plates and loop the nylon around them keeping your leg straight. Test you range of movement including sitting, and cut off and re-tie adjust nylon loops as necessary.
Once all your nylon linking loops are too you liking, Put a piece electrical tape over the front hole and cover over it with a piece of sheet plastic. Leave a 1" (2.5cm) unglued piece from the drilled hole to the edge of the armour for the nylon to move freely underneath.

If you are binding after painting, once painted, grab some high gloss varnish and give 3 coats, allowing each coat to dry in between, from the hole to the armour edge, this will stop the nylon rubbing away the paintwork. If your armour is dull, simply spray matte varnish over the gloss to take away the shine. Next grab some clear, grey or silver fishing nylon and loop the nylon around them keeping your leg straight. Test you range of movement including sitting, and cut off and re-tie adjust nylon loops as necessary. Same linking together as above, really. Make sure the knots you tie are at the back of you armour, for obvious reasons!

I don’t expect you to follow this; I’m just throwing in an idea, so you can steal as much or as little as you need.

By azeria. 08/12/09, 03:38 pm

OT; OMG THE WORD FILTER DIDN'T WORK.

on topic; If you manage to make it it will be freaking sweet n_n

By Alatyr. 08/12/09, 09:04 pm

o-o

Tigurius, you deserve a Victoria Cross for going above and beyond the call of duty.

That was amazingly detailed and very hard to understand. But i'll nab what i can. Thanks so much.

By Cookie Monster. 08/12/09, 10:00 pm

By Alatyr. 08/12/09, 11:27 pm

Will do, thanks.
I'll probably stick with craft foam though *newb* But just use some of the tips from what you wrote.

I'll keep all that stuff in mind for if i ever need to make armour again when i have a little more experience...

Again, thankyou so much.

By Cookie Monster. 09/12/09, 05:14 am

I kinda dislike craft foam for full armour. It's not common here, so people charge whatever they like for it making it expensive. It also crushes like an egg shell.

But:
You can dip it in resin, but you run the risk of drips, or the resin running to one end of the armour.
Or the whole thing can turn into a gooey mess if you choose the wrong resin.

You could also brush the outside with resin, let it dry, then brush the inside. That will minimize drips and running resin, but not eliminate it.
Also if you choose the wrong resin it can warp while it dries. Also if too much pressure is applied and you resin mix is the least bit wrong, it can also crack.

If you choose PVA, I suggest coating the whole piece of armour (in your garage preferably, away from dust and dirt) in watered down coats of PVA, and when apply ALWAYS paint in one direction (eg paint downwards only, don't have any backstroke going up). The watered down glue and always painting one direction will keep down visible brush strokes in the glue.
PVA is even worse for warping as well.